What you need to know before you start

A title transfer moves ownership of a vehicle from one person to another. You fill out the title document itself — the physical certificate of ownership issued by your state's DMV — and submit it along with other paperwork to your state's motor vehicle department. The exact form varies by state, but the basic information you'll enter is the same: the seller's details, the buyer's details, the vehicle identification number (VIN), the odometer reading, and the sale price.

Most states require both the seller and buyer to sign the title in front of a notary public before you submit it. Some states allow you to get the title notarized at a bank, UPS store, or the DMV itself. A few states have moved to electronic titles, which you handle through the DMV website instead of on paper. Check your state's DMV website to confirm whether your state uses a paper title, an electronic title, or both.

The person selling the car fills out their portion first, then the buyer completes their section. If you're buying the car, you'll need the seller's signed title before you can finish your part. If you're selling, you must sign in the presence of a notary — you cannot sign ahead of time and mail it to the buyer.

Key Takeaways

  • The title transfer form is the actual certificate of ownership from your state DMV, not a separate process or worksheet.
  • Both seller and buyer must sign the title in front of a notary public in most states, and the notary must witness both signatures on the same day.
  • You will need the vehicle's VIN, the odometer reading on the day of sale, the sale price, and the identification of both parties.
  • After both parties sign and the notary notarizes the document, the buyer submits the completed title to the DMV along with the bill of sale and registration fee.
  • Some states now issue electronic titles through the DMV website, which means you never handle a paper document.

Gathering the documents and information you'll need

Before you sit down to fill out the title, collect these items: the current title certificate (the seller must have this), both parties' government-issued photo ID, the vehicle's VIN (found on the dashboard, the title itself, or the registration), and the odometer reading as of the sale date. You'll also need the sale price and the date of the sale.

If the title has a lien on it — meaning a bank or lender still owns part of the vehicle — the lender's name will appear on the title. In that case, the lender must sign off on the transfer or provide a lien release letter. The seller should contact their lender to request this before the sale closes. Without the lien release, the title cannot transfer to the buyer.

Some states require a bill of sale, which is a separate document that records the sale details. Even if your state doesn't require it, creating one is a good idea because it serves as proof of the transaction. A bill of sale typically includes the date, both parties' names and addresses, the VIN, the odometer reading, the sale price, and both signatures. You can find a template on your state's DMV website or use a generic one from an online legal document service.

How to fill in the seller's section

The seller starts by entering their full legal name, current address, and phone number in the fields marked "Seller" or "Previous Owner." Some states ask for the seller's driver's license number as well. Print clearly or type the information — handwriting that is hard to read can delay processing.

Next, enter the vehicle's VIN exactly as it appears on the current title. Copy it character by character; a single wrong digit can cause the DMV to reject the form. Below that, enter the odometer reading on the date of sale. This is a legal requirement in most states to prevent odometer fraud. Write the exact number of miles shown on the dashboard on the day you sign the title.

Enter the sale price in the field labeled "Sale Price" or "Consideration." This is the amount the buyer paid for the vehicle. Some states use this figure to calculate sales tax, so accuracy matters. If the vehicle was a gift, write "gift" or "no sale price" depending on what your state's form instructs.

The seller must sign and print their name in the signature block. Do not sign until you are in front of a notary public. The notary will watch you sign and then add their own signature, seal, and date to the document. This step cannot be done in advance or by mail.

How to fill in the buyer's section

Once the seller has signed in front of the notary, the buyer fills in their portion. Enter your full legal name, current address, and phone number in the fields marked "Buyer" or "New Owner." Include your driver's license number if the form requests it. Again, print or type clearly.

Verify that the VIN, odometer reading, and sale price are correct — these should already be filled in by the seller, but check them against the bill of sale and the vehicle's registration. If any information is wrong, ask the seller to correct it before you sign.

Some states ask whether you are buying the vehicle for personal use, commercial use, or as a fleet vehicle. Select the category that applies. If you plan to register the vehicle in your name, you may also need to indicate whether you want to keep the same license plate or request a new one — this varies by state.

Sign and print your name in the buyer's signature block. Like the seller, you must sign in front of a notary public. In some states, both parties can sign in front of the same notary on the same day. In others, the buyer may be allowed to sign separately. Check your state's DMV website to confirm the rule.

Getting the title notarized

A notary public is an official authorized by your state to witness signatures and verify identity. The notary's job is to confirm that you are who you say you are and that you are signing the document willingly, not under pressure.

You can find a notary at a bank (often free if you have an account there), a UPS store, a library, a law office, or an online notary service. Some DMV offices offer notary services as well. Call ahead to confirm hours and whether an appointment is needed. Bring your government-issued photo ID — a driver's license, passport, or state ID card. The notary will not notarize a signature without seeing your ID.

The notary will watch you sign the title, then add their signature, the date, their notary seal or stamp, and their notary number. The notary's information proves to the DMV that the signatures are genuine. Without a notary signature and seal, the DMV will reject the title.

If you and the seller are in different locations, some states allow you to use a remote online notary (RON). You sign the title in front of a notary via video call, and the notary electronically notarizes the document. Not all states accept RON for title transfers, so check your state's DMV website first.

Submitting the completed title to the DMV

After both parties have signed and the notary has notarized the title, the buyer submits the completed document to the state DMV. You can usually do this in person at a DMV office, by mail, or through the DMV website if your state offers online submission.

Include the notarized title, the bill of sale (if required by your state), a completed registration form for the new owner, proof of insurance, and the registration fee. The fee varies by state and sometimes by vehicle weight or age. Check your state's DMV website for the exact amount and what forms are required.

If you submit by mail, send the documents to the address listed on your state's DMV website. Use certified mail with a return receipt so you have proof the package arrived. Processing time by mail is usually two to four weeks, though it can be longer during busy periods.

If you submit in person, bring the original notarized title, your ID, and the other required documents. The DMV will process your request on the spot or within a few days, and you'll receive a new registration and title in your name by mail.

Common mistakes to avoid

The most common error is signing the title before meeting with a notary. The notary must witness your signature — a signature that was already on the document when you arrive will not be accepted. Never sign the title alone and then try to have it notarized later.

Another frequent mistake is entering the wrong VIN or odometer reading. Copy the VIN directly from the title or registration, not from memory. For the odometer, write the exact number of miles on the day of sale, not an estimate. If you make a mistake, cross it out neatly, write the correct information above it, and have the notary initial the correction.

Incomplete or illegible handwriting causes delays. If you print or type the form, the DMV can read it clearly. If you handwrite it, use black or blue ink and print in capital letters. Avoid cursive, which is harder to scan.

Forgetting to include the bill of sale or proof of insurance will cause the DMV to return your submission. Before you mail or submit the title, check your state's DMV website for a complete list of required documents and include everything.

What happens if you make a mistake on the title

If you notice an error after you've signed but before you submit to the DMV, ask the notary to initial the correction. Cross out the wrong information, write the correct information above it, and have the notary add their initials and the date next to the change. The DMV will accept this as long as the notary has approved it.

If you've already submitted the title and the DMV rejects it because of an error, you'll receive a notice explaining what needs to be corrected. You can usually fix it by submitting a corrected title with a new notarization. Contact your state's DMV to ask whether you need a new title form or whether you can amend the one you submitted.

If the error is on the seller's side and you've already signed as the buyer, you may need to ask the seller to correct it and have it re-notarized. This is why it's important to verify all information before you sign — catching mistakes early saves time and frustration.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I sign the title without a notary?

Most states require a notary signature on the title transfer. A few states allow the buyer to sign without a notary if they submit the title in person at the DMV, but the seller almost always must sign in front of a notary. Check your state's DMV website to confirm the rule for your state.

What if the seller won't sign the title?

If the seller refuses to sign, you do not own the vehicle. The title is a legal document that proves ownership, and without the seller's signature, the transfer cannot happen. If you've already paid for the car, you may need to contact a lawyer or your state's attorney general's office for guidance on recovering your money.

Do I need to notarize the bill of sale?

Most states do not require the bill of sale to be notarized, only the title itself. However, having the bill of sale notarized adds an extra layer of proof that the sale occurred and can be helpful if there is ever a dispute. Ask your notary whether they can notarize the bill of sale at the same time as the title.

How long does it take to get the new title after I submit it?

Processing time varies by state. If you submit in person at the DMV, you may receive a temporary registration on the spot and the permanent title by mail within one to two weeks. If you submit by mail, expect two to four weeks. Some states offer expedited processing for an extra fee.

What if the title has a lien on it?

The lender must release the lien before the title can transfer to the buyer. The seller should contact their lender and request a lien release letter or a new title with the lien removed. The lender will send this directly to the DMV or to the seller. Without the lien release, the DMV will not issue a new title in the buyer's name.