Start with what you want the money to do
Choosing a mutual fund means matching what the fund invests in to what you need from your money. Before you look at any fund name or performance number, write down two things: when you will need this money, and how much loss you could handle without changing your plan.
If you need the money in two years, a fund that holds mostly stocks will swing up and down in ways that might force you to sell at the wrong time. If you can wait fifteen years, that same movement becomes less risky because you have time to ride it out. Your time horizon — how long until you spend the money — is the single biggest factor in what type of fund makes sense.
Your comfort with loss matters just as much. Some people sleep fine when their account drops 20 percent in a bad year because they know it will likely recover. Others panic and sell, locking in the loss. Be honest about which one you are. That answer tells you whether to pick a fund heavy in stocks (more ups and downs) or bonds (steadier, smaller moves).
Key Takeaways
- Match the fund's focus — stocks, bonds, or a mix — to how long you can leave the money invested and how much yearly ups and downs you can tolerate.
- Index funds and target-date funds are simpler starting points than actively managed funds because they have lower costs and clearer rules about what they hold.
- Check the expense ratio (the yearly cost to own the fund) because even a difference of 0.5 percent per year adds up to thousands of dollars over decades.
- A fund's past performance does not predict future results, so do not pick a fund just because it was the best performer last year.
- If you are saving for retirement through an employer plan, start with the target-date fund that matches your expected retirement year.
Understand the three main fund types
Stock funds hold shares of companies. They move more than other funds — up sharply in good years, down sharply in bad ones — but historically have grown the most over long periods. Use these if you have at least five to ten years before you need the money.
Bond funds hold debt issued by governments and companies. They move less than stock funds and pay steady income, but they grow more slowly. Use these if you need the money within a few years or if big swings make you uncomfortable.
Balanced or mixed funds hold both stocks and bonds in a set mix — often 60 percent stocks and 40 percent bonds, or 70/30. They move less than pure stock funds but grow faster than pure bond funds. These work well for people who want one fund that does not require constant rebalancing.
Within each type, funds differ by what they invest in. A stock fund might focus on large U.S. companies, small U.S. companies, international companies, or a mix of all three. A bond fund might hold government bonds, corporate bonds, or both. The more specific the focus, the more it can swing based on that one area doing well or poorly.
Compare index funds and actively managed funds
An index fund holds all (or most) of the stocks or bonds in a specific list, called an index. The S&P 500 index, for example, tracks 500 large U.S. companies. An index fund that tracks the S&P 500 buys shares in all 500 of those companies in the same amounts the index uses. The fund manager does not pick winners and losers — the index does.
An actively managed fund pays a manager to research companies and bonds, then pick which ones to buy and sell. The manager tries to beat the index by choosing better investments than the index would include.
Index funds cost less to run because no one is doing research and trading constantly. Their yearly cost — called the expense ratio — is often 0.03 to 0.20 percent of what you have invested. Actively managed funds usually cost 0.50 to 1.50 percent or more per year.
Over long periods, most actively managed funds do not beat their index after paying those higher costs. For a beginner, an index fund is usually the better choice because it is cheaper, simpler, and historically has matched what the market does. If you want to try an actively managed fund, pick one with a long track record and costs below 0.75 percent per year.
Look at the expense ratio and other costs
The expense ratio is the percentage of your money the fund takes each year to cover its costs. A fund with $100,000 invested and a 0.50 percent expense ratio costs you $500 per year. That does not sound like much, but over thirty years at 7 percent annual growth, that 0.50 percent difference between two funds can cost you tens of thousands of dollars.
When you buy or sell a fund, you might also pay a sales load — a one-time fee that goes to the person selling you the fund. Some funds charge 3 to 6 percent of what you invest. Others charge nothing. If you are buying through your employer's retirement plan or a discount brokerage, you can almost always find funds with no load.
Check the fund's prospectus or fact sheet for the expense ratio. It is always listed. Compare it to other funds in the same category — a stock index fund should cost less than 0.20 percent, and a bond index fund should cost less than 0.15 percent. If a fund costs much more, understand why before you buy it.
Use target-date funds for retirement accounts
A target-date fund is a single fund that holds a mix of stocks and bonds chosen for people retiring in a specific year. A "Target 2050" fund, for example, is designed for someone who will retire around 2050.
When you are young and far from retirement, the fund holds mostly stocks because you can handle the ups and downs. As the target year gets closer, the fund automatically shifts to hold more bonds and fewer stocks. By the target year, it holds mostly bonds and stable investments. You do not have to do anything — the fund rebalances itself.
Target-date funds are ideal if you have an employer retirement plan (like a 401(k)) and do not want to pick multiple funds or rebalance them yourself. Find the fund with the target year closest to when you plan to retire, and put your money there. The expense ratio varies by fund company, but many are between 0.10 and 0.20 percent per year.
Check the fund's holdings and strategy
Before you invest, read what the fund actually holds. The prospectus or fact sheet will list the fund's top ten holdings — the companies or bonds it owns the most of. If you see a company you recognize and understand, that is a good sign. If the top holdings are unfamiliar or seem risky, that is a signal to read more or pick a different fund.
Also check the fund's turnover rate — how often it buys and sells investments. A low turnover (below 30 percent per year) means the fund holds its investments for a long time. A high turnover (above 100 percent) means it trades constantly. High turnover creates more costs and taxes, so lower is usually better.
Look at the fund's asset size too. A fund with billions of dollars is usually stable and straightforward to buy or sell. A very small fund (under $50 million) might close if it does not attract more money, forcing you to move your investment. Medium to large funds are the safest bet.
Avoid chasing past performance
Mutual fund companies advertise their best performers — the funds that had the highest returns last year or over the past five years. It is tempting to buy the fund that was number one. Do not. Past performance does not tell you what will happen next.
A fund might have been the best performer because it took bigger risks, or because the type of investment it focuses on happened to do well that year. When the market shifts, that same fund might be the worst performer. Funds that were top performers five years ago are often average or below average today.
Instead of chasing returns, pick a fund based on its strategy, costs, and how well it matches your time horizon and comfort with risk. A boring, steady fund that costs 0.10 percent per year will almost always beat a flashy fund that costs 1.50 percent per year, even if the flashy fund had great returns last year.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should I pick one fund or several?
If you are starting out, one fund is enough. A balanced fund or target-date fund gives you diversification in a single investment. Once you have more money, you might split it between a stock fund and a bond fund, or between U.S. and international stock funds. But one good fund beats ten mediocre ones.
What is the difference between a mutual fund and an ETF?
An ETF (exchange-traded fund) works like a mutual fund — it holds a basket of stocks or bonds — but trades like a stock during the day. Mutual funds trade once per day after the market closes. For most beginners, the difference does not matter much. Both can be index funds or actively managed, and both have expense ratios. Pick whichever your employer plan or brokerage makes easiest.
Can I lose all my money in a mutual fund?
Losing everything is extremely unlikely with a diversified mutual fund. A stock fund holds dozens or hundreds of companies, so one company failing does not wipe you out. A bond fund holds debt from many issuers. You can lose money in a bad year, but a well-chosen fund should recover over time if you stay invested.
How often should I check my fund's performance?
Check it once or twice a year, not every week or month. Daily or weekly checking tempts you to sell when the fund is down, which locks in losses. If you picked the right fund for your time horizon, short-term ups and downs should not change your plan. Checking too often is how people make expensive mistakes.
What if I do not know my time horizon yet?
Start with a balanced fund or target-date fund that holds both stocks and bonds. These are safe middle-ground choices that work for most time horizons. Once you know when you will need the money, you can shift to a more specific fund if you want to. It is better to start with something reasonable than to wait for perfect information.